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Auction Name: 2025 September 29 Fall Fine Jewelry Signature® Auction
Lot Number: 55030
Shortcut to Lot: HA.com/5572*55030
Van Cleef & Arpels Wood, Gold Bracelet Element: Wood
Metal: 18k gold
Marked: for Van Cleef & Arpels; 2Y692-3; Pierre Brun
Gross Weight: 59.30 grams
Dimensions: 8 inches x 1/2 inch
Condition Report*:
Metals:
Gold
Overall Condition: Good
Condition Notes: Van Cleef & Arpels’ wood jewelry quickly became one of the maison’s early successes, particularly through the symbolic and sentimental Touch Wood collection. Introduced in 1916 during World War I, the line drew on the widespread belief that touching wood could ward off misfortune, transforming everyday superstition into wearable reassurance. These understated pieces offered emotional resonance and elegant simplicity during a period marked by uncertainty and austerity.
Favored by both soldiers and civilians, Touch Wood jewelry became deeply personal tokens. Men often gifted wooden rings to loved ones as symbols of protection, while others wore them as quiet expressions of patriotism. The use of accessible materials reflected wartime scarcity, yet still upheld the maison’s commitment to artistry and poetic design. Officially trademarked in 1916, Touch Wood helped shape Van Cleef & Arpels’ identity as a house that could turn sentiment into style.
The concept resurfaced around 1940, during World War II, in the form of wooden ID tags and charms primarily designed for men. These newer iterations echoed the original purpose, offering a sense of comfort in turbulent times.
With this rich heritage in mind, the present bracelet, composed of richly grained wood and 18k yellow gold, likely dates from the postwar period. It remains in very good condition, showing only light indentations in the wood from wear. Stamped VCA, Made in France, and 2Y692-3, the piece also bears a French maker’s mark reading PABS with Deux épis croisés—"two crossed ears of grain"—a registered symbol for Pierre Brun.
*Heritage Auctions strongly encourages in-person inspection of items by the bidder.
Statements by Heritage regarding the condition of objects are for guidance only and should not be relied upon as statements of fact,
and do not constitute a representation, warranty, or assumption of liability by Heritage. All lots offered are sold "AS IS".
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