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Description

Retro Colored Diamond, Diamond, Platinum,
Gold Convertible Jewelry Suite
Stones: Full and single-cut colored diamonds
weighing a total of approximately 26.60 carats;
full-cut near-colorless diamonds weighing a total;
of approximately 16.00 carats; round-cut yellow
sapphire
Metal: Platinum, 18k yellow gold, 14k white
and yellow gold
Attributed to: Paul Flato
Gross Weight: 292.20 grams
Brooch Dimensions: 3 inches x 1-1/2 inches -
4-1/4 inches x 2-1/4 inches
Bracelet Dimensions: 6 inches x 3 inches
Necklace Length: 14 inches - 15-1/2 inches
*Note: Colored diamonds not tested for origin of color

Property formerly owned by Irene Dunne


More information about Paul Flato. See also: P. Flato, Flato Artist.



Condition Report*: Diamonds:
Colored Diamond Color: Yellow, Brown
Avg Color: G-H-I
Avg Clarity: SI
Shape(s): Full-cut
Count: 100+

Metals:
Gold

Overall Condition: Very Good
Condition Notes: An enchanting suite of modular design, this convertible ensemble features two sculptural leaf clusters—one larger and one smaller—composed of 18k yellow gold and platinum, and set with an alluring array of colored and near-colorless diamonds; several diamonds are also in the VS and I range. One yellow sapphire appears to be a replacement. Each leaf is thoughtfully articulated with diamond-set midribs and swirling foliate forms, producing a textural brilliance that transitions elegantly between components. The accompanying bracelet and necklace mounts, formed in hollow 14k white and yellow gold, provide both structure and versatility. Ingeniously engineered, the suite allows for multiple configurations. Each motif may be worn as an individual brooch, the pair may be united into a statement necklace with two distinct styling options, and the smaller motif seamlessly integrates into the bracelet mounting. There is no option for a necklace to be worn with the bracelet or brooches separately, though the bracelet (which utilizes the smaller brooch) and the larger brooch can be worn at the same time. One midrib on the smaller brooch is no longer present, a minor loss that does not detract from the piece’s visual harmony or functionality. All mechanisms and fittings remain intact, allowing the elements to interlock smoothly. Overall condition is very good, with well-preserved metalwork and securely set stones. Included with this lot is a handwritten letter attributed to Irene Dunne with instructions on how to operate the jewelry. This suite offers a thoughtful blend of design ingenuity and timeless elegance, suitable for both collectors and connoisseurs of adaptable fine jewelry.

Attributed to Paul Flato.
Flato was inspired by 19th Century French naturalism. The diamond torque or, vine necklace, with articulated rose leaves, suspended from a rigid hinged collar that opens in front, draws from an earlier Boucheron style named ‘the question mark’ necklace. Flato created several variations of this design during the late 1930s for Hollywood movie stars and celebrities.

References:
- Proddow, Penny, Debra Healy & Marion Fasel. Hollywood Jewels: Movies, Jewelry, Stars. Harry N.Abrams, Inc., 1992. Page 43 copy of ink and gouache drawing of the diamond vine necklace from a Flato scrapbook.

- Bray, Elizabeth Irvine. Paul Flato: Jeweler to The Stars. Antique Collector's Club, 2010. Pages 43 and 69 show examples of the diamond rose leaf motif in an articulated cascade brooch and bracelet.
Paul Flato: American jeweler Paul Flato (1900-1999) opened his first shop in New York City, catering to socialites. His popularity reached its zenith in 1930s Hollywood where his lavish creations adorned the likes of Merle Oberon, Douglas Fairbanks Sr., Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Charlie Chaplin, Katherine Hepburn and Hopalong Cassidy, as well as a smattering of socialites. Flato‘s designs were stylized, full of humor and whimsy. His refined lines and impeccable craftsmanship were unparalleled. Following a few sojourns behind bars, he operated in Zona Rosa, Mexico from 1970 - 1990. Flato passed away in Ft. Worth, Texas at age 98.

*Heritage Auctions strongly encourages in-person inspection of items by the bidder. Statements by Heritage regarding the condition of objects are for guidance only and should not be relied upon as statements of fact, and do not constitute a representation, warranty, or assumption of liability by Heritage. All lots offered are sold "AS IS".

Auction Info

Auction Dates
September, 2025
29th Monday
Bids + Registered Phone Bidders: 27
Lot Tracking Activity: N/A
Page Views: 968

Buyer's Premium per Lot:
25% of the successful bid per lot.

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Sold on Sep 29, 2025 for: $275,000.00
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