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Description

Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Multi-Stone,
Diamond, Enamel, Gold Brooch
Stones: Multi-color sapphires weighing a total
of approximately 2.50 carats; round-shaped rubies
weighing a total of approximately 1.15 carat; full-cut
diamonds weighing a total of approximately
1.50 carats; ruby cabochons
Element: Enamel
Metal: 18k yellow gold and 14k white gold
Marked: Cartier
Attributed to: Aldo Cipullo
Gross Weight: 46.30 grams
Dimensions: 2-7/8 inches x 2-1/4 inches


More information about Aldo Cipullo. See also: A. Cipullo, Cipullo Artist.

Estimate: $8,000 - $10,000.

Condition Report*: Diamonds:
Avg Color: G-H-I
Avg Clarity: VS
Shape(s): Full-Cut
Count: 26 - 50

Colored Gems:
Type(s): Multi-Color Sapphire and Ruby
Shape(s): Round and Cabochon
Count: 1 - 25
Avg Quality: Good

Metals:
Gold

Overall Condition: Very Good
Condition Notes: This vividly enameled fish brooch is crafted in 18k yellow gold, its body shaded in a gradient of crimson, yellow, green, and blue. The form recalls both a sea robin and a flying fish, marine species known for their elongated bodies and broad, wing-like fins.
The pectoral fins, rendered in 14k white gold, are pavé-set with diamonds, rubies, pink sapphires, yellow sapphires, and blue sapphires, creating a dynamic play of color and texture. Upon inspection, one ruby displays a minute chip to its crown, visible only under magnification. The enamel remains in excellent condition, free from chipping or restoration.
The reverse is fitted with a curved pin stem and slide-style catch. While not directly documented as an original Aldo Cipullo creation in literature, the brooch is attributed to Aldo Cipullo for Cartier.
Aldo Cipullo: Roman-born Aldo Cipullo, the son of a prominent Italian jeweler, immigrated to New York in 1959 at age 23, where he studied at Manhattan’s famed School of Visual Arts. It was while working for David Webb, Tiffany and Cartier that he showcased his talent for innovative design. Cipullo’s passion for modern living influenced his pure, clean designs. He regularly utilized machine parts – nails, screws, knots, ropes – along with dollar signs, and even pasta, as inspiration for his creations. The simplicity and softness of his lines and form were equally reflected in the metal he used and in his use of carved gemstones such as carnelian, black onyx, turquoise, and amethyst. Cipullo, however, didn’t stop there; his was an artistic, offbeat approach to color pairings where, for example, he combined black onyx with turquoise, or rock crystal with topaz, all of which was unheard of at the time. While at Cartier, in 1969, he created the famous gold “love bracelet.” It was an immediate success. The mass appeal of Cipullo’s designs was evident in the tremendous interest expressed in both the press and the public, as well as by socialites and celebrities alike. Some of his most well-known clients included Sophia Loren, Liza Minnelli, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Duchess of Windsor, as well as Pierre Cardin, Frank Sinatra and Richard Burton. In 1974, the same year he opened his own business – Aldo Cipullo, Ltd. – he won the prestigious Coty Award for his pioneering influence on the design of men’s jewelry. Ten years later, on February 2, 1984, Cipullo died at age 48 in New York City.

*Heritage Auctions strongly encourages in-person inspection of items by the bidder. Statements by Heritage regarding the condition of objects are for guidance only and should not be relied upon as statements of fact, and do not constitute a representation, warranty, or assumption of liability by Heritage. All lots offered are sold "AS IS".

Auction Info

Proxy Bidding Ends 
December
3rd Wednesday 9:50 am CT
Auction Dates
December
3rd Wednesday
Proxy Bidding Time Remaining 
31 Days 23h 4m 16s
Bids + Registered Phone Bidders: 1
Lot Tracking Activity: 11
Page Views: 137

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This lot is in: 1 - Signature® Floor Session (Live Floor, Live Phone, Mail, Fax, Internet, and Heritage Live):
(Lots 55001-55355) - 10:00 AM Central Time, Wednesday, December 3, 2025.
[Proxy bidding ends ten minutes prior to the session start time. Live Proxy bidding on Heritage Live now starts within 2 hours of when the auction opens for proxy bidding and continues through the live session.]

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Additional Location Info:
Heritage Auctions
2801 W. Airport Freeway
Dallas, TX 75261

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*Reserve Not Met. A reserve has been posted on this lot, but no bids have met the reserve. The next bid will meet the reserve.

Reserve Amount:
$7,000
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