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Description

Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Ruby, Diamond,
Enamel, Gold Brooch
Stones: Ruby cabochons; full-cut diamonds
weighing a total of approximately 0.50 carat
Element: Enamel
Metal: 18k gold
Marked: Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Gross Weight: 39.20 grams
Dimensions: 1-15/16 inches x 2-1/8 inches


More information about Aldo Cipullo. See also: A. Cipullo, Cipullo Artist.

Estimate: $8,000 - $10,000.

Condition Report*: Diamonds:
Avg Color: G-H-I
Avg Clarity: SI
Shape(s): Full-Cut
Count: 1 - 25

Colored Gems:
Type(s): Ruby
Shape(s): Cabochon
Count: 1 - 25
Avg Quality: Good

Metals:
Gold

Overall Condition: Very Good
Condition Notes: This dynamic Aldo Cipullo for Cartier brooch captures a vibrant moment of motion, with four stylized fish swimming in a mesmerizing circular formation around a swirling whirlpool of rubies. Crafted from hefty 18k yellow gold, the piece has both substantial weight and presence, reflecting Cartier's signature craftsmanship and Cipullo’s sculptural prowess.
After magnified inspection, the enamel presents in very good condition, free of detracting nicks, chips, or restoration. Equipped with a pinstem on the reverse and secured by a trombone shaped slide catch. For reference, one larger sized ruby cabochon measures 6.00 x 4.45 mm.
Aldo Cipullo: Roman-born Aldo Cipullo, the son of a prominent Italian jeweler, immigrated to New York in 1959 at age 23, where he studied at Manhattan’s famed School of Visual Arts. It was while working for David Webb, Tiffany and Cartier that he showcased his talent for innovative design. Cipullo’s passion for modern living influenced his pure, clean designs. He regularly utilized machine parts – nails, screws, knots, ropes – along with dollar signs, and even pasta, as inspiration for his creations. The simplicity and softness of his lines and form were equally reflected in the metal he used and in his use of carved gemstones such as carnelian, black onyx, turquoise, and amethyst. Cipullo, however, didn’t stop there; his was an artistic, offbeat approach to color pairings where, for example, he combined black onyx with turquoise, or rock crystal with topaz, all of which was unheard of at the time. While at Cartier, in 1969, he created the famous gold “love bracelet.” It was an immediate success. The mass appeal of Cipullo’s designs was evident in the tremendous interest expressed in both the press and the public, as well as by socialites and celebrities alike. Some of his most well-known clients included Sophia Loren, Liza Minnelli, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Duchess of Windsor, as well as Pierre Cardin, Frank Sinatra and Richard Burton. In 1974, the same year he opened his own business – Aldo Cipullo, Ltd. – he won the prestigious Coty Award for his pioneering influence on the design of men’s jewelry. Ten years later, on February 2, 1984, Cipullo died at age 48 in New York City.

*Heritage Auctions strongly encourages in-person inspection of items by the bidder. Statements by Heritage regarding the condition of objects are for guidance only and should not be relied upon as statements of fact, and do not constitute a representation, warranty, or assumption of liability by Heritage. All lots offered are sold "AS IS".

Auction Info

Proxy Bidding Ends 
December
3rd Wednesday 9:50 am CT
Auction Dates
December
3rd Wednesday
Proxy Bidding Time Remaining 
31 Days 23h 6m 1s
Bids + Registered Phone Bidders: 1
Lot Tracking Activity: 8
Page Views: 126

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This lot is in: 1 - Signature® Floor Session (Live Floor, Live Phone, Mail, Fax, Internet, and Heritage Live):
(Lots 55001-55355) - 10:00 AM Central Time, Wednesday, December 3, 2025.
[Proxy bidding ends ten minutes prior to the session start time. Live Proxy bidding on Heritage Live now starts within 2 hours of when the auction opens for proxy bidding and continues through the live session.]

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Additional Location Info:
Heritage Auctions
2801 W. Airport Freeway
Dallas, TX 75261

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*Reserve Not Met. A reserve has been posted on this lot, but no bids have met the reserve. The next bid will meet the reserve.

Reserve Amount:
$7,000
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